Road Cycling in Croatia – Brac

Cycling Tour of Brac Island

The short ferry ride from Split takes you to one of Croatia’s most spectacular islands, Brac (pronounced ‘Brach’), once here a 70km loop with 1500m of assent lies ahead… not forgetting beautiful bays, marina villages, endless café and bakery stops. Being one of the fatter islands compared with many of Croatia’s lean long and thin islands, Brac provides the opportunity for a few circular routes.

We start our ride in Supetar on the North side of Brac and planned an anticlockwise route working our way up to over 500m in elevation via the Vidova Gora.

Even without knowing the climb, it already sounds like a classic alpine ascent… ‘Yes, Vidova Gora is an infamous climb on Brac’.

Heading east from Supetar along 20 minutes of rolling road we dip down into Sutivan, and with that early ride freshness don’t regret this descent into the beautiful quaint marina village, fit with ornate clock tower. Those who’ve forgotten to have their morning caffeine fix may want to jump into one of the bars for a quick espresso. Coffee culture is a bit of a thing in Croatia and Brac is not short of open bars and cafés, even in the off-season. The ascent out of Sutivan opens the lungs and we’re soon rewarded with beautiful views west towards Bobovisca harbour followed by a decent descent to recover.

The next few km are rolling as we pass through Lozisca, which hosts Brac’s famous bell tower, it is now time to begin our big ascent of the day. The climb up to Vidova Gora comes in two parts, a more gradual 5k assent through a winding valley then after a fun descent, smooth roads and rolling terrain, another approximate 5k that starts as you turn right out of Nerezisca.

This later half is steeper and would be more fitting in the heart of the French Alps. It winds its way up as you look ahead at the road cut into the side of the mountain. I am filled with real nostalgia thinking back to our summer of cycling cols in the Alps and Dolomites and am so pleased to be having this familiar feeling here on Brac.

The highlight is the view. A panorama of Mainland Croatia where the autumn sun is shimmering directly off the mountain side providing a vertical length of glowing rock.

In the far distance, further inland you can see snow peaked mountains, this, coupled with the emerging assent provides that alpine feel as the road continues to climb.

There’s no glorious finish, km markers to count you up or an obligatory sign for a selfie against, however the pure satisfaction in knowing you’re cycling in just bibs and a jersey at the end of November, is enough to fulfil any avid cyclists needs as you reach the peak.

Some fast km now lie ahead and the varying views of the Croatian mountain‘s continue to improve. It is like nothing you’d have seen in other parts of Europe and the view from this removed island makes the trip well worth it.

The descent north east is chilly, it is November after all and a gillet is all I have for an additional layer, however the café stop is imminent. I’m starting to wish I’d gone anticlockwise now as I’m greeted with numerous hairpins on this descent… prompting my memory to some week’s prior when we were cycling in the Dolomites.

Now halfway in and well over half of the climbing done, we are greeted by Pucisca, in my eyes the most picturesque town on the island. Time for coffee at Caffe bar Škarpelin, which provides ample comfy seating in the sun with a harbour view and shop bakery next door, chocolate croissants and espressos are enjoyed in the company of a few friendly local cats.

Now having done the climb, seen spectacular views of the surrounding mountains, quant villages and ornate buildings made of the famous Brac stone (very white – rumor has it some of the White House was made from this stone…) I am ready to call it a day. As cycling often does, the next section energises me greatly. The road winds and hairpins for the next 20k, providing cambered corners, sharp climbs and chicane like descents to truly entertain, in no time we’re back into Supertar.

We stop for lunch before our return ferry to Split and choose a Pekara (bakery) at the edge of the harbour for some generous, warm Burek. With its layers of filo pastry, local soft salted cheese and spinach, Burek is the perfect indulgence after a hard ride… we actually return for some more treats to take onto the ferry and are pleased with the journey of 50minutes to reflect and relax before arriving in Split.

Ride Details

When – We road during the last week in November.

Riding time – dependent on ability, approx. 3-4hours (not including stops). You can make a full day of it if you are not planning to stay longer.

Equipment – Road bikes 25mm tyres (road surface is pretty good). Jersey, bib shorts, arm warms, full finger gloves, gillet.

Where to stay – With a few other ‘loop’ options to ride on the island you may look to stay for a few days, there is a plethora of air bnbs and hotels available even in the off season. For ease, you could stay in Supetar or travel a little further to one of the named harbours on route. With the water still ‘dippable’ at this time of year, why not jump in the sea post ride or enjoy an evening meal out to make this a great weekend or just a one night trip or bike pack. Furthermore a gravel or MTB would open up a few more mixed terrain loops.

Cost – A return Ferry from Split to Brac, at the time of writing, is €17 per person with regular daily crossing to and from Brac. Other routes are also available.

http://www.jadrolinija.hr

For more Croatian island cycling inspiration read about our fantastic 3 day bike trip on the island of Cres.