Cycling Lake Como

Italy’s Il Lombardia

After weeks in the French Alps and prior to our dip into the Dolomites we decide to divert to Lake Como. Not only to ride some of the near iconic climbs but also watch the infamous one day classic, Il Lombaridia, the race of the fallen leaves, on 8^th October.

Como is famed for two climbs and we would aim to tackle them both on our route, plus another climb the pro’s would compete on the following day, twice. We’d head out East from Como City toward Canzo then over the top of the climb north, round to Bellagio, south up to Civenna then loop back toward Canzo.

As we commenced the ride we were not accustom to the traffic, having been in the quiet French Alps for all of September. Yet this change of scenery was welcomed as we started to climb from Como, east towards Canzo. After about 45minutes of climbing on some classic alpine style hairpins heading through Mudronno, the anticipation of what was to come was weighing on us.

We were about to tackle the Muro di Sormano (Wall of Surmano) and it is just that, a wall.

The climb averages 17% for just shy of 2km with peaks of over 20%, and it is savage. Two things were going through my head. One – did I have enough of a gear ratio, standard 36/52 up front and an 11-30 cassette… apparently you should have a 32 as a minimum! Secondly, would Lorien’s back hold out under the shear force and exertion of the climb (after having two slipped disc’s diagnosed earlier this year).

Now, there is a more gentle way up this climb, perfectly enjoyable I’m sure but to tackle the Miro you swing a left off the road heading out of Sormano, it’s well signposted by a wooden noticeboard style sign with pitched roof. Here, make the most of a very short descent and tight left hand turn before the climb ramps up. And it does exactly that, you’re out of the saddle almost straight away, in the lowest gear possible – holding on. After all of 2minutes I wondered how long I could hold this. I was neck and neck with a native, which when you’re riding about 2mph is just a bit awkward, oh and take your Garmin off auto pause as you’ll be going so slow it will inevitably kick in. I’m almost climbing over the front on my handlebars clawing myself over the bike due to the gradient. I look down and start counting the meter marker, which adds to the psychological and physiological torture and I feel I’m going to be on this thing for hours, I was hoping for under 20minutes. About halfway in my co-climber put a foot down, a small win for me.

Next up a camera crew is walking down the hill, likely filming something based on this climb’s historic nature. This year it doesn’t feature in the Pro race but they’ll have plenty of other climbing to tackle. I reach the last corner (not knowingly) and have a few seconds rest bite and there lies the finish. The route is traffic free so swerve away to take a little % out of the gradient where possible. Through the wooden posts I push all the way to the junction, past the restaurant and reach the viewpoint on the left. My heart is pumping and legs absolutely burning, like I’ve completed squats non-stop for 20 minutes. The salt from my sweat is burning my eyes, but now finished I can enjoy the experience and achievement. I wheel back to the junction to see Lorien at the bottom of the last corner, knowing what she’s going through I hola in encouragement. She does a fantastic effort and is flare up free! We smash a few jelly sweets, pop the gilets on and descend down to Nesso where we enjoy an ice cream and espresso in a little side street café, laughing in hysterics at how bonkers the Muro actually is. Half torture, half challenge… A ‘once and done’ sort of climb.

The coastal road north is a welcome break from the climbing, a local advised us to ignore this road due to how busy it can be but we find it to be fairly quite for midday Friday and enjoy the views west over the lake, watching the sea planes come and go.

Madonna del Ghisallo

Our next challenge is the Madonna del Ghisallo, the climb south out of Bellagio and after the Muro, anything is possible. Approximately 9km in length with an average gradient of 5.4% and 465m of climbing it’s not to be underestimated, it will also feature in the next days pro race. What I loved about this climb is the tight switchbacks you hit around a third of the way in, they felt magical as you disappear into the wood with glimpses of the road below. As you ascend you’re greeted with views east over the lake and more switchbacks. The climb finishes at the Madona Del Ghisallo, a sort of shrine to road cycling complete with cycling museum, chapel, statue and café. We stop for the obligatory pictures and take in the cycling atmosphere. Many ask us how we found the climb, where we’ve cycled from and if we’re watching the race the following day. I think the Ghisallo has to be one of my favorite climbs on our travels, it has everything you could want from a road climb coupled with considerable cycling significance and history.

From here it’s mainly downhill to Como, retracing our route somewhat and weaving through the city centre to push ourselves out onto the San Fermo della Battaglia Cronoscalata climb, which the pros will tackle twice. About 2km in length averaging 7.8% this is a fun punchy climb to finish, a bit more gritty and it feels exciting to be riding the climb that will likely decide tomorrows race.

On the Thursday before our ride we scoped out this climb to gauge a good vantage point to watch the race from. We spotted a number of pro teams on our recce and were parked right next to the UAE team car and managed a quick selfie with Tadej Pogacar himself.

We enjoyed this climb, it’s worthwhile taking on even only to pop over the top and visit Gelateria Lariana. It has a more local feel with everyone gathered after work/ school for their Friday creamy flavourful fix. It is to this day my favourite Gelato experience in Italy, although this might be due to really earning it after what was an epic and emotional tough day of riding.

The following day we spin the legs up to the top of the climb and enjoy a fantastic race, many of the locals have prepared banners for Vincenzo Nibali, this being his final pro race, along with Alejandro Valverde. It feels like the last of the old guard of iconic pro cyclists I knew when getting into cycling many years ago. It’s a real festival feel and the crowds are three/four deep in paces. We’re glade to have arrived earlier for a good spot and to see Pogacar win the race, utilising the very climb we’d tackled the previous day.

Our ride in Lake Como was such a memorable one, a different type of cycling and a worthwhile stop on our route to the Dolomites the following weeks to cycle the Sella Ronda loop.

For more details on our ride you’ll find my Strava activity here https://www.strava.com/activities/7925916525