Cycling The North Coast 500 in Scotland

How to Cycle The NC500

With our house rented out for a week in August, due to a specific sporting event, we had a week’s trip to plan for an adventure. After being reunited with a Scottish cycle friend in June they suggested the NC500. With the desire to do a looped ride and following a bit of research we decided the NC500 was the challenge for us.

The route we had planned left little room for error, we would cycle over 5 days covering 500 miles with a B&B, hostel or hotel booked for each night.

The NC500 is a circular route around the highlands of Scotland, which takes in breathtaking views and unique landmarks. The route is popular with cyclists, bikers and vanlifers alike. The wild camping rules in Scotland also make this a popular bikepacking location. We decided to travel light as 100miles a day for 5 days with over 9000meter in elevation was going to be enough of a challenge without the addition of weight.

The Gear

• One set of cycle clothes (rinsed in the shower each night)
• One long sleeve lightweight top, lightweight trousers, underwear and Champneys lightweight foam flip flops (a new bike packing essential)
• Toiletries inc chamois cream
• A packable waterproof
• Bike tools and spare tubes
• Snacks
• Phone, card, car key, cash
• Café lock

With the above included this meant carrying around 2-3kg in extra weight, so we could move ‘fast’ covering the 100miles or more daily.

Day 1 – Inverness to Torridon

115miles, riding time 8:06, elevation 2051m

We’d chosen a good week to cycle and departing Inverness it was pleasantly warm. As we meandered out of the city a sense of calmness came over us, we confidently knew we’d done everything possible to prepare for the trip, the only thing now was to turn the pedals.

It was always going to be a tough day, so roughly 70km in we stopped at Midge Bite Café in Achnasheen. On route, this café is very popular with NC500ers and we received a comforting flat white and tasty cake, making us feel as though we were just out on our usual Sunday 50miler. Refreshed and with a kind descent we cycled adjacent to Loch Dughaill, sheltered by the hills we felt alive and in the wild, surrounded by the famous Scottish highland scenery.

We knew the two big climbs were to come, the infamous Bealach na Bà and the pre-climb in Kishorn, which somewhat gets overlooked… it’s around 2km long with about 120m of climbing and does ramp up in parts, a warm up for what’s to come.

Bealach na Bà was a brilliant climb, exactly how our prior research had described, alpine in nature with unique views down the valley and traditional switchbacks towards the summit. Being August the roads were filled with other travellers, not overly busy just noticeable. Many in old soft top cars on some sort of rally, cheering us on from the comfort of their seats – welcome encouragement.

Unfortunately on this climb Lorien had to awkwardly and quickly unclip in the barrier due to a close passing van and in doing so twisted her knee. She wouldn’t know until the following day how this incident would impact the remainder of the route.

Bealach na Bà done we descended to Applecross where coke, chips and warm tea were in order as our hands were freezing from the misted summit and cooling breeze. The last 15 miles although stunning were brutal, consistently rolling and into a headwind, it felt like the day would never end.

A warm welcome at Torridon Hostel equipped with chili and ale was very much welcomed that evening. 1 day down, 4 to go.

Day 2 – Torridon to Ullapool

86miles, riding time 6:18, elevation 1504m

The start of day two was a real treat as we road parallel with River Torridon, with epic high mountains reaching out from the valley floor either side.

We’d trained prior to the trip, covering approximately 50 – 100miles most weeks and increasing that with some back-to-back days to embrace the discomfort of multiday cycling.

As now discovered, Lorien’s incident on Bealach na Bà meant any over extension of the knee was unbearably painful and so kept her seated for the duration. Four days with no out of the saddle climbing… I don’t know how she did it!

With approximately a daily 2000m elevation spread throughout the 100ish miles a day, the route can be described as ‘rolling’ with some relentless sections. These persistent ‘up down up down’s’ are a sort of elevation torture and can be somewhat wearing when you’re physically and mentally exhausted. However, with another kind day of weather we were knocking off the miles and meters.

Arriving in Ullapool offered us a real sense of home, our pub hotel was right on the waterfront not far from the ferry and the sounds and feel of the place reminded us of our then home in Cowes on the Isle of Wight. We sort comfort in this and that of our hotel, enjoyed a good meal out and relaxed in our comfy beds.

Day 3 Ullapool – Durness

96miles, riding time 7:35, elevation 2176m

The initial climb out of Ullapool was tough and in fact the climbing didn’t let up, with day 3 containing the most amount of elevation.

I distinctly remember this section having some more unique landscapes as the typography west out to Clatcholl changes from the epic mountain views to more rocky outcrops, small pools and remote villages, littered with distinct self build type house builds. This area felt the most remote, with narrower roads and enclosed short punchy climbs, one at over 20%. Prior to this section at about 60km in we reached the days highlight, Lochinver Larder, home to a famous pie shop, even if it did mean an extra short steep climb out of the village with full tummies. It’s well worth the stop and our sweet and savoury pies hit the spot. Funny how quickly your mindset can change after a good carb binge!

Durness is quite a poignant landmark on the route. Now over halfway you turn East and have completed the most picturesque part along the West coast. Although there’s a climb on arrival, the long descent prior is one of the most memorable views on the entire route. Such an expanse with undisturbed scenery down the road ahead, as you look right the mountain ridgeline is inviting as you have time to scour the various peaks and run offs.

Day 4 Durness – Wick

109miles, riding time 7:59, elevation 1904m

Day 4 was a favourite, perhaps due to the Scottish porridge made by our excellent B&B host that morning. The cycling was slightly different today and involved a unique out and back style section around the tongue of Loch Eriboll, from mile 3 – 18. It’s a descent to the tip with a gradual ascent the following side, ramping up towards the end. We also enjoyed a good lunch stop at The Store Café Bar, just off route in Bettyhill, keeping up the tradition of eating local, IRN-BRU was on the menu once again.

Reaching John O’Grotes is a highlight for any cyclists, even if you’ve not done LEJOG. By this point we were excited for the section south, a somewhat crosswind after a gruelling headwind from Thurso with a very light shower (the only one of the trip) now meant we could put power down through the pedals to arrive in Wick.

That night we stayed in an airbnb and bought a huge amount of food in our exhausted state… at least we had plenty of snacks for our final day!

Day 5 Wick – Inverness

109miles, riding time 9:07, elevation 1430m

The final days ride on any other occasion would have been a good route but being physically and mentally sore there was a certain sense of ‘getting it done’. The A9 wasn’t so busy to start but the long wide climbs were that much more wearing, especially for Lorien being saddle bound.

At mile 25 second breakfast was well overdue, so we stopped in Berriedale at The River Bothy and had numerous delicious cakes…of course we over ate as we had to try so many!

The closer you get to Inverness the busier it gets. Thankfully once off the A9 the latter section is much more enjoyable, as you’re treated to glimpses of the city and the finish.

Once on the Kessock Bridge there’s a huge sense of relief, we were now only a few miles from the finish and what was the start just 5 days ago at Inverness Castle. A welcome site and distinct departure/ arrival point in the City of Inverness.

This type of riding is a wholesome experience, being both emotionally and mentally tough with each escalating throughout every day. We had our highs and lows and both had to pick one another up throughout the route, mainly with the lure of tasty snacks and singing of random chorus’s!

We had a few days post ride in and around Loch Ness to recover, mainly taken up by slow morning breakfasts watching the Olympic highlights and gentle ‘ish’ afternoon hikes.

The NC500 is an epic route and certainly doable within a week. If I had the chance I would do it again using larger tyres (28mm minimum) for those hardy highland roads or perhaps explore the gravel route options for a deeper wilderness adventure. The café’s and pubs we ate it were really welcoming and not to mention the food delicious.

It was this trip that set us on our path to where we are today, currently traveling full time so we can cycle as much as possible.